Nikon focus modes

When you set your camera lens to AF (auto focus), digital SLR camera's offer the photographer a choice between interchangeable modes. Auto focus modes can vary between different digital camera brands. In the past, Nikon's two most popular modes were called Continuous Servo AF and single area AF. Nowadays, they are called AF-C (short for auto focus continuous) and AF-S (short for auto focus single). Many Nikon models also have AF-A and MF (manual focus) modes to choose from as well.

What are the differences between AF-C, AF-S, AF-A and MF focus options?
AF-C (AF continuous, sometimes called continuous servo) is good use when photographing moving objects. When your camera is set to AF-C and you focus on a moving subject, for example a dog running towards you, the focus will stay on the animal so long as your shutter button is held half way down. In other words, the camera will keep re-focusing as the animal moves. That is, so long as you keep your shutter button held half way down.

AF-S (AF single, sometimes called single area AF) mode, is good for photographing subjects that don't move, such as flowers or portraits etc. It locks the focus on the non moving object that you want to photograph. You can then recompose the shot and take the photograph.

AF-A is where the camera selects and goes between the last two modes. If it thinks the subject you are photographing is stationary, then it will automatically use AF-S focus mode. If it picks up that the subject you're photographing is a moving subject, then it will automatically use AF-C focus mode. This is also the default camera focus mode, unless you change the setting to AF-C or AF-S.

MF is the manual focus mode. It's unclear why this focus mode is included, because nowadays there is usually an option to switch between auto and manual focus on the side of the actual lens. Maybe it's in case you come across a lens that doesn't give you that option.


Why would photographers change between focus modes?
The default camera setting is AF-A. As mentioned earlier, this mode guesses if the subject you are photographing is stationary or moving, and accordingly sets the focus to either AF-C or AF-S. Photographers don't always trust the camera to pick the correct setting, preferring to make the choice themselves.

http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/camera/nikon-digital-slr/focus-modes.shtml

Metering

Metering means to ensure that u properly expose ur scene. There are 3 kinds of mode (a) matrix metering (b) centre weighted (c) spot metering

(a) matrix metering - normally used in landscape photography to properly expose the whole scene, the camera will determine the light across the whole picture and try to find the best setting to properly expose everything.

(b) centre weighted - normally used in portrait setting or other scenes where there is a main object that occupies abt 70% of the picture center. The camera will try to properly expose the 70% of that picture and "ignore" the background. So for example, if ur object is black and ur background is white, the camera will meter the black object, and will try to adjust itself to bring out the black object's details. In order to do so, it got to expose more. So wat u get is a properly exposed black object against a over exposed background. Remember the background is already white, and because of the need to expose more to bring out the black details, the white background will be overexposed.
So i think u get wat i mean, the camera will only care abt the center 70%.

(c) spot metering - similar to the centre weighted metering, but just that in spot metering, we meter only a small spot eg. a 6mm diameter circle in the picture. This is used for example, when there is a small frog in a bright picture. if u use matrix metering, the camera will evaluate the whole scene and think that the whole picture is too bright, and hence under expose the picture to generate a proper exposure for the whole scene. But in doing so, the small frog may be further underexposed and become dark frog.
in addition, if u use centre weighted metering, remember it assigns abt 70% to the center of the picture, but the frog is only very very small in the picture! hence the end result will also be the camera feels that the scene is too bright and underexpose.
Thus in spot metering, u aim the center crosshair on the frog to meter the frog. This will ensure that the frog is properly exposed and be seen! but of course the background may not be properly exposed

photography 101

http://digital-photography-school.com/photography-1014-exposure-and-stops

Home remedies to Improve Lactation & Breast feeding

My experiences on improving milk prodution during breast feeding.

Breast feed your child for at least minimum six months.
Here are certain home remedies which have helped me improve Lactation & breat feed my baby.

1) Drink 3-4 litres of water daily....very very important
Your body needs lots of fluids during breast- feeding.
2)Have half a litre to one litre of milk daily..
There is One Ayurvedic powder available called SATAVARI- to be taken with milk.....creats wonders to milk secretion.
3)Eat dry grated coconut around 100 gms daily. Even fresh grated coconut is helpful.
4)Eat Carom seeds( Hindi name- Ajwain) around 1-2 teaspoon after every meal.Mildly Roast the carom seeds bafore eating.....this helps to improve the milk secretion and in addition prevents the baby from gastric problems.
5)Eat a bowl of cracked Wheat (Hindi name- Daliya) daily....you can mix milk & sugar to make a desert out of the Daliya or make any spicy recipe as per your choice.
6)Have enough Ghee with your food around 5 tablespoons daily.
7)Fenugreek seeds ( Hindi name- Methi Seeds) should be consumed daily....in the form of sprouted seeds or you can make vegetable or some sweet item by mixing them with rice & jaggery .
8)Juice of Neem Leaves & Neem Stem consumed every morning on empty stomach also helps.
9)Make ladoos by mixing Gum( Marathi name- Dink), wheat flour & dry fruits..eat one every morning
10)For non- vegetarians, you can have one Egg daily & chicken or paya soup.
If you love Fish eat fishes with shells (Mussels)
11)Continue with the prenatal tablets or Calcium/Iron Supplements

*Please do not keep your stomach empty when breast feeding...The Rule is " The More Healthy & Full the Mother eats The More Lactation Improves"
*The Baby has only one source of nutition and that is YOU!!!This is just the extension of your pregnency


Hope this post is Helpful to you.

D50 Lens

The Nikon D50 employs the Nikon DX Format sensor and Nikon F lens mount design. This maintains seamless compatibility with all AF Nikkor lenses and allows photographers to take full advantage of DX Nikkor lenses designed for Nikon's D-series digital SLR cameras and which are optimized to achieve maximum center-to-edge-to-corner image quality.

Compatible Lenses

1) DX Nikkor: All functions supported

2) Type G or D AF Nikkor: All functions supported

3) Micro Nikkor 85 mm F2.8D: All functions supported except autofocus and some exposure modes

4) Other AF Nikkor: All functions supported except 3D Color Matrix Metering II

5) AI-P Nikkor : All functions supported except 3D Color Matrix Metering II and autofocus

6) Non-CPU : Can be used in exposure mode M, but exposure meter does not function; electronic range finder can be used if maximum aperture is f/5.6 or faster

Note: IX Nikkor lenses can not be used

AIR PUMP / FILTER DIY

http://www.pet-expo.com/trivia/aquariums-pumps.htm
http://www.petsnpets.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=61_82_83

Manufactures of powerheads rate their "pumps" based on gallons per hour (GPH). A rating of 120 GPH means that the pump will move 120 gallons of water in an hour.

To determine the correct powerhead for your system know that most experts conclude that a healthy environment requires that the water be completely circulated at least five to six (5-6) times an hour. Therefore if your aquarium is 20 gallons, you should choose a powerhead that will pump 20 gallons times 5 (20x5) or at least 100-120 GPH. Choosing a powerhead that moves as much as 10 times the actual water volume of your aquarium is certainly acceptable.

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http://www.petfish.net/articles/Do-It-Yourself/sponge_filter.php



Material List:

8 inch length of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch PVC pipe (Lowes, Homedepot) approx $2.00 for a 10 foot pipe
4 inch by 4 inch block of foam rubber (different sizes available from Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart etc) Very cheap.
8 inch length of rigid airline tubing (Available at Petsmart for about $2.00 for a 4 foot length)
Marbles, slate or rocks to use as a weight for the filter
Silicone for glueing the parts together

Notes On Construction:
These filters can be made in bulk quantities faster and cheaper. Be sure to get "open pore sponge", to be sure that's what you have you can try to blow thru the sponge, if you can, it's open pore = good, if you can't, it's closed pore = bad.
Making the uplift tube:
Cut the PVC pipe into 8 inch lengths. On the bottom of the uplift tube drill a few holes to allow the entrance of water into the pipe from the sides. You can either drill holes or use a hacksaw to cut slits, either way is fine.
Silicone the rigid airline tubing on to the inside of the uplift tube. An alternate way to accomplish this is to drill a slanted hole so that the rigid tube can be slightly bent and forced to the bottom of the uplift tube. Natural friction will hold fast the rigid airline tubing.
Cut up the sponge into 4 inch cubes, larger or smaller, it's up to you.
Cut or drill a hole in the sponge to snugly accept the PVC uplift tube. One way to do this is to wet the sponge and freeze it to allow easier drilling. I find that just plunging a razor knife into the dry sponge works quite well. Be very careful.
The sponge is going to naturally float until it is well water logged, that's why the marbles or slate is used as a weight to help hold the sponge on the bottom of the tank.
I prefer to silicone a piece of slate or tile to the bottom of the sponge filter.
(I have found that hot glue will come undone under water, but your luck might be better, or I might have the wrong kind of hot glue)
Now hook your filter up to an airpump and it's ready to start filtering.
A quick way to populate the sponge filter with "good guy" bacteria is to run it a week or 2 in a tank with an established sponge filter. Or squeaze an established sponge filter in the water of the new tank so that the new filter will suck up the bacteria released from the established filter.
These filters are very efficient. One of these in a 10 gallon tank will supply all the filtration required to keep it clean and balanced. The costs of these filters if made in quantities of about 10 at a time will be under $2.00 each. Pretty good deal huh?

Scripts

http://arunrathod.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2009-06-10T21%3A41%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=7