AIR PUMP / FILTER DIY

http://www.pet-expo.com/trivia/aquariums-pumps.htm
http://www.petsnpets.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=61_82_83

Manufactures of powerheads rate their "pumps" based on gallons per hour (GPH). A rating of 120 GPH means that the pump will move 120 gallons of water in an hour.

To determine the correct powerhead for your system know that most experts conclude that a healthy environment requires that the water be completely circulated at least five to six (5-6) times an hour. Therefore if your aquarium is 20 gallons, you should choose a powerhead that will pump 20 gallons times 5 (20x5) or at least 100-120 GPH. Choosing a powerhead that moves as much as 10 times the actual water volume of your aquarium is certainly acceptable.

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http://www.petfish.net/articles/Do-It-Yourself/sponge_filter.php



Material List:

8 inch length of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch PVC pipe (Lowes, Homedepot) approx $2.00 for a 10 foot pipe
4 inch by 4 inch block of foam rubber (different sizes available from Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart etc) Very cheap.
8 inch length of rigid airline tubing (Available at Petsmart for about $2.00 for a 4 foot length)
Marbles, slate or rocks to use as a weight for the filter
Silicone for glueing the parts together

Notes On Construction:
These filters can be made in bulk quantities faster and cheaper. Be sure to get "open pore sponge", to be sure that's what you have you can try to blow thru the sponge, if you can, it's open pore = good, if you can't, it's closed pore = bad.
Making the uplift tube:
Cut the PVC pipe into 8 inch lengths. On the bottom of the uplift tube drill a few holes to allow the entrance of water into the pipe from the sides. You can either drill holes or use a hacksaw to cut slits, either way is fine.
Silicone the rigid airline tubing on to the inside of the uplift tube. An alternate way to accomplish this is to drill a slanted hole so that the rigid tube can be slightly bent and forced to the bottom of the uplift tube. Natural friction will hold fast the rigid airline tubing.
Cut up the sponge into 4 inch cubes, larger or smaller, it's up to you.
Cut or drill a hole in the sponge to snugly accept the PVC uplift tube. One way to do this is to wet the sponge and freeze it to allow easier drilling. I find that just plunging a razor knife into the dry sponge works quite well. Be very careful.
The sponge is going to naturally float until it is well water logged, that's why the marbles or slate is used as a weight to help hold the sponge on the bottom of the tank.
I prefer to silicone a piece of slate or tile to the bottom of the sponge filter.
(I have found that hot glue will come undone under water, but your luck might be better, or I might have the wrong kind of hot glue)
Now hook your filter up to an airpump and it's ready to start filtering.
A quick way to populate the sponge filter with "good guy" bacteria is to run it a week or 2 in a tank with an established sponge filter. Or squeaze an established sponge filter in the water of the new tank so that the new filter will suck up the bacteria released from the established filter.
These filters are very efficient. One of these in a 10 gallon tank will supply all the filtration required to keep it clean and balanced. The costs of these filters if made in quantities of about 10 at a time will be under $2.00 each. Pretty good deal huh?