Origin Part I

the surnames which daivajnya brahmins style after thier names have thier origin from the places which are in goa.
Before daivajnas entered the land of karnataka,they resided in gomantak i.e goa.
They stayed in diffrent places where they had installed thier kuladevathas.
The surnames which have 'kar' in the end is suffixed to the names of the places of goa from where they hail.
Like daivajnya who hail from Rai village where they had installed sri kamakshi devi (at present installed in shiroda village of goa)style themselves as RAIKAR's.

People from palan as palankar,verne -vernekar,lotli-lotlikar,pawas-pauskar,anwe-anvekar.all these villages are still are still in goa till date.

Debit / Credit Memos

Accounts Payable

• Debit and Credit Memos are having the same meaning.


• both are to reduce the balance of supplier.


• Debit memo is raised by us


• Credit Memo will be issued by the supplier.

Accounts Receivable

• Debit memo is like supplimentory Invoice to increase the balance of Customer


• Credit Memo is to reduce the balance of customer

• For instance, if the customer was not charged with freight charges and we need to add them to his liability, as we cant prepare one more invoice for the freight charges. we prepare a debit memo.


• Credit memo is issued when the customer is over invoiced, that he's charged more than what he should have been charg

mailx

mailx -s "This is it" someone@someplace < somefile For simple text

For Binary
uuencode o115899948.zip o115899948.zip | mailx Narayan.Raykar@zyx.com

find / -name foo 2>/dev/null

Good Mutual Fund

how_i_find_good_mutual_funds

Go to Lists in each of the major fund categories. Find the top 25 performers over several different periods: 1 year, 3 years, 5 years, 10 years, 15 years and some even shorter term.

Let's say you're fairly young and you're looking for a growth fund, something with the chance of high returns but also a bit riskier.

Go first to the 1 Year tab on the "Growth" list. Print it out. Go to the 3 Year tab, print it out. Go to the 5 Year tab, print it out. Go to the 10 Year tab, print it out. Go to the 15 Year tab, print it out. Now you've got a lot of paper in front of you.

The first thing you are going to do is compare the 1-Year list to the 3-Year list. Find any mutual funds on the 1-Year list that are also on the 3-Year list and highlight them. Cross out the rest of the mutual funds listed on the 1-Year.

Now compare the 3-Year to the Five-Year, and don't completely forget the 1-Year. Look for the funds on the 5-Year that also made the 3-Year. Highlight those and cross out the rest of the 3-Years (except any 3-Years that had overlapped with the 1-Year, those might be under consideration).

Do the same comparing the 5-Year list to the 10-Year list, and comparing the 10-Year list to the 15-Year list.

What you want to do is find the funds that have the most overlap between these different time periods. I've never found any fund that was a top 25 performer for all the periods listed. More often you'll find overlap in the first, shorter-term periods or the longer-term periods, but not both.

Now, rank the funds that have made multiple lists. If any funds showed up on three lists, rank those first. If you have multiple funds that showed up on three lists, rank the ones that showed up on the long-term lists higher--for example, a fund that showed up on the 5-10-15 lists beats a fund that showed up on the 3-5-10 lists. Likewise with funds that show up on two of the lists. A fund that shows up on the 10 & 15 lists beats a fund that shows up on the 5 & 10 lists.

Make a list of the top 10 funds based on this criteria. Then you have to do a little more investigation.

First, some of these funds may be closed to new investors, especially those that have been successful for 10 or 15 years. So you first have to find out what you can even buy.

Second, check fees & loads. Some of these funds are going to have high management fees, which is OK since they're highly successful funds, but I still steer clear of those with higher fees. In the same way, I steer clear of funds with loads--a fee upfront or at fund selling that eats into your returns. Even with a track record of success, paying fees and loads will eat into your return without a guarantee that these funds will continue to perform as well as in the past.

Then, make your choice and send in your money.

I just did this exact exercise with growth funds and ended up buying into the Value Line Preferred Growth Fund (previously known as the Special Situations fund). It was not the highest-ranked fund under my system, but it was top 25 for both 10 & 15-year growth (at an average 12.92% for 10 years and 12.51% over the last 15 years). The expense ratio is 1.13% which is very low for a managed fund, and there are no loads, so you're not giving away your gains. Plus, you can actually buy into it, which I couldn't do for some of the other potential funds that had closed to new investors.

It takes more time explaining this method than actually doing it. Give it a try and I think you'll be happy with your long-term results.

Fertilizer

All plants require an uninterrupted supply of 14 nutrient elements to grow properly.

These are the Macro-nutrients:

• nitrates (N)
• phosphates (P)
• calcium (Ca)
• chloride (Cl)
• sodium (Na)
• magnesium (Mg)
• potassium (K)
• sulfates (S)

And the micro-nutrients:

• iron (Fe)
• boron (B)
• copper (Cu)
• zinc (Zn)
• molybdenum (Mo)
• manganese (Mn)

The macro-nutrients in the aquarium should come from water changes (tap water normally has all these nutrients in small amounts) and small amounts from the fish. Water changes should be done at least every 2 weeks and about 15% should be drained and replaced. This should supply sufficient macros.

The micro-nutrients are different and are normally in short supply in tap water. The other problem with the micro-nutrients is that they are very unstable in their inorganic form and normally precipitate and become unusable.

The Chelate Breakthrough

The discovery of an organic molecule the chelate which binds to metal-ions tightly allowing them to be dissolved in a water solution with no precipitation so making the nutrient available to the plant. This very important for aquatic plants which normally have a very large appetite for iron and may need as much as 4ppm to allow healthy growth without chlorosis.

Chelate Types

There are six types of chelates important to hydroponic growth but only two that need to be mentioned for aquarium plants both for production and in the aquarium.

EDTA (Ethylene-Diamene-Tetra-Acetic-acid) is the first and most commonly known. This is not ideally suited for aquatic plants because it is unstable at a higher pH than 6.0 and generally aquarium conditions are between pH6.0 and pH8.0. This is also a cheaper chelate and so is unfortunately used to cut costs, so absorption is limited.

DTPA (Dethylene-Triamine-Penta-Acetic-acid) would be a better choice and should be more widely used because it is stable up to a pH of 7.5. This is within the aquariums conditions.

When looking for a fertilizer as a very general rule look for:

1. Preferably a liquid
2. Low or No macro-nutrients
3. High Iron (Fe) in the chelated form
4. All the other micro-nutrients also in a chelated form if possible

Name Change after Marraige

Pan Card Name Change Website
The instructions are
Instructions
x) The acknowledgment duly signed, affixed with photograph (in case of 'Individuals') alongwith demand draft/cheque, if any, proof of existing PAN, proof of identity & address as specified in the application alongwith any other relevant proof as specified (in Item No.IV - Documents to be submitted alongwith the application ) is to be sent to NSDL at 'National Securities Depository Limited, 3rd floor, Sapphire Chambers, Near Baner Telephone Exchange, Baner, Pune - 411045'.
(y) Superscribe the envelope with 'APPLICATION FOR PAN CHANGE REQUEST-Acknowledgment Number' (e.g. 'APPLICATION FOR PAN CHANGE REQUEST-881010200000097').

Aquarium Lightning

Aquarium Lightning

The four most important criteria in determining the light you need are:
• Lumens per watt
• Lumen focus (as well a restrike, although less of an issue as per my research and tests than focus)
• PAR (this is important to understand as well as related useful light energy)
• Watts (or watts per gallon, however this term is way over used/simplistic)

Here are a few Kelvin numbers:
*Absolute zero = 0 K (-273.15C)
*Waters freezing point = 273.15 K (0 C)
*Waters boiling point = 373.1339K (100C)
Kelvin is used in the lighting industry to define the Color temperature of a bulb. Higher color temperature lamps above 5500 K are "cool" (green–blue) colors, and lower color temperature lamps below 3000 K are "warm" (yellow–red) colors.

A few notes about Kelvin:* Plant chlorophyll absorbs light at wavelengths of 300 to 700 nm (a Kelvin rating of about 6400 strikes a good balance here, which is why this is the best Kelvin temperature for freshwater plants and symbiotic zooxanthellae in corals).
* The lower the "K", the more yellow, then red the light appears, such as a 4500 K bulb.
* The higher the "K", the bluer the light appears, such as a 20, 000 K bulb.
*Higher Kelvin Color Temperature lights penetrate water more deeply, even more so in saltwater, however there is less of the infrared "PAR spike" as well. * The human eye sees mostly sees light around 5500K.
* Candle flame = 1850 – 1900 K
* Sunlight (1 hour after dawn) = 3500 K
* Typical summer light (sun + sky) = 6500 K
* Cool white fluorescent = 3400 K

*The 6500 Kevin bulbs have produced the best freshwater plant growth (as this Kelvin lamp generally has more of the infrared nm spike need by "higher" plants, but still has some of the 425-500 nm blue).

In regards to the original question, I don't think there is a definitive Kelvin rating that is best for plant growth. The measurement itself is only meaningful to humans, as it generally indicates what kind of hue the light gives off as perceived through the human eye. Lower values are more red-ish in appearance, while higher values appear more and more blue.

That said, shorter wavelength blue light penetrates much farther into the water than the longer wavelength red. This may be why 6700k+ Kelvin bulbs seem to be better for plant growth, since the blue light is more readily available for the plant to use compared to the lower Kelvin lights.

However, plants actually use a broad range of the light spectrum for photosynthesis... not just the blues. This is known as PAR, or Photosynthetically Active Radiation. Basically, it is the output of light needed by plants for the process of photosynthesis. Photosynthesis actually uses the very much of the 650 to 670 nm range of the light spectrum which appears to humans as deep orange to red color. It also uses much of the 430 to 475 nm range of the spectrum (varying shades of blue), but not quite as much as the red range. The range of colors which human eyes are most sensitive to are the yellow/green range (550-620nm) is almost completely unused in photosynthesis, which is why most plants appear green in color (reflected light). It also explains why many warm/cool white bulbs are so terrible for growing plants--they mostly have the yellow/green tint that humans are so sensitive to but plants don't use at all.

So what should you look for in a bulb if the Kelvin rating isn't the best measurement to use for growing plants? I would recommend trying to find the spectral power distribution graphs for the light bulbs you plan to use. Most manufacturers of aquarium-specific light bulbs will put this graph right on the cardboard case of the light bulb for you to read. You want the graph to look like the letter "M"... good bulbs for growing plants will have a higher concentration of light being output in the 430-475nm range, almost no power in the 500-600nm range, and another large curve or spike around 650-675nm.

If you decide to buy a cheaper bulb from places like Home Depot or Lowes (which I don't necessarily think is a bad thing at all), you may have to dig a little deeper for your information. Try looking around the manufacturer's website. Many of them have the spectral power distribution data on their sites if you poke around enough.

Here are some of the graphs for the bulbs mentioned earlier in the thread: